Lake Natron

About Lake Natron

Lake Natron lies in a hot, remote corner of the Rift Valley in northern Tanzania, close to the Kenyan border. It is a shallow soda lake so alkaline that its surface crusts over, and microbes stain the water red, pink and rust. Few creatures can live in it, which is exactly why it matters: it is the world's most important breeding ground for lesser flamingos, whose nests on the mudflats are guarded by the caustic water.

Above the lake looms Ol Doinyo Lengai, the Maasai Mountain of God, the only active volcano known to erupt natrocarbonatite lava, which flows black and weathers to white. Fit walkers climb it overnight to reach the crater at dawn; it is steep, loose and hard work. Gentler days follow the Ngare Sero river up a narrow gorge to a waterfall you can stand under, cross the flats to watch flamingos feed, or visit ancient human footprints set in volcanic mud, with Maasai guides leading the way.

The dry months from June to October are the most comfortable, though midday heat is fierce all year. Flamingo numbers rise and fall with the rains. Natron is a long, dusty drive from Mto wa Mbu and works best as an adventurous detour between Lake Manyara or Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, reached overland through Loliondo. A Tanzanian e-visa is required.